Soothing Shrimp

No worries Wicca. I know you are good for it.

Thanks chib. Yeah, I may have overstated that a little- but the hardier types like Java I don't think would do badly. Of course that's only going from hearsay. I use daylight cfls.

They work well for me on 2.5g, but I think they are not bright enough for me on a standard 10g

Usually the higher the light, the more compact.

I was talking water temperature. LOL They'll grow in any light!

Really? Then it's velcro. Thanks for the tip!

They would be instantly incenerated at that high temp.

I couldn't agree more, Randy.

Thanks for watching out for the members, Will. :-)

Usually the tule holes are too large, unless you can find smaller.

I use the heavy duty round orange extention cord for my Alita. Stays cool due to the larger wires.

cost?

Great suggestion. I may use cable ties for low cost.

Congrats!

My personal thought is that you have two difficult shrimp on opposite ends of the spectrum. TB and Sulawesi. You already have CRS, and if they are doing well and breeding well, then you should have no probs with TB. If not, consider concentrating on one and then moving to the other.

I couldn't get on shrimpspot all day long. I was able to get on late tonight now.

Something else interesting is that in Neos teh fems tend to carry the color traits, but in cards (so I hear) the males tend to carry the desired color traits.

That's not actually a tiger, but a low grade cherry. Tiger is a different type of shrimp.

I say 17

Nope. LOL

So some belly slider males are starting to get colors in the small tank now. While trying to figure out why I have 4 that swim and are large (1 male, 3 fem), and the rest belly sliders, I ran across this interesting post. Here's a segment of it dealing with killies: "The main reason why bellysliders are found in killifishes is because the embryo has developed in the egg, but it actually is not a mature fish yet. What one does is one dries out killi eggs such Nothobranchius and one puts them into peat so that they can develop slowly but surely and when they have fully developed, then one puts them into water and they can hatch and grow and become normal fishes. Now when we look at killi eggs that have been incubated in peat, then we sort of assume they are ready for hatching, add water and they hatch, but often they have actually not sufficiently developed yet. When this happens the swimbladder often has not developed enough and even if the fish hatches, the swimbladder cannot inflate, it just simply has not developed yet. The tiny fry cannot catch up and it remains a belly slider, and you cannot do anything about it. You have added water to the eggs too early and they cannot swim normally and grow normally, and will eventually die. This has nothing to do with bacteria it has to do with being able to identify when the eggs have developed enough to be hatched. Experienced killi keepers know when to do this, when you are a beginner you make mistakes and you can have all fry that hatch being bellysliders and this then means they will all die." http://www.tropicalaquarium.co.za/showthread.php?14952-Belly-Sliders&s=9a407e2ff1f68c05fd5bf8daadf2e616&p=202050&viewfull=1#post202050 Makes sense, especially since the belly sliders are much smaller in size. They hatched, but developmentally they weren't far enough along to inflate their swimbladders. It states they will die, but mine haven't. Perhaps I'm doing too much care and they are surviving?

Hmmm...Hi grade to low grade Question 1: A C B Question 2: B A

Same here.

Nice job. Do she have any problems with splaying?

I guess I meant so he won't infect anyone else. :-/