Soothing Shrimp

yeah. My neos tear into Jake's, but my cards won't touch it.

Many shippers- including myself- send younger aged shrimp to handle acclimation better, handle shipping better from stress, and have them live a longer time. Also, if I sent all my adult shrimp, I'd have no more to make babies for my selective breeding projects. LOL

If no male mates with a fem, it is possible for the saddle to be reabsorbed over time.

When I first got snowball shrimp years ago, I asked the same thing. It's more easily seen in them. The answer is it depends on what they ate. heh All shrimp don't eat the same thing at all times, so it will come and go.

Not my pic, and kinda hard to see with yellow on yellow, but you get the idea:

Nope. That's the guts. Their stomach is in their head. The saddle will be yellowish and on their upper back behind the head.

Would you please add a thumbs up icon?

This, by far thus far, is my favorite forum. Much more family-like here.

I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and theories. Thank you.

Looks like a baby shrimp to me.

Wonder how it works differently in cards? In neos it starts to bring out blues (not reds) and then eventually they turn brownish.

For $200 you can. http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=497+500+1973&pcatid=1973 Or for $150 you can get cuttlefish egg clusters. http://www.blueworldaquariums.com/proddetail.php?prod=cuttlefish

Thanks. These days with so many shrimp and tanks, I really have to be careful what I buy and make sure not only that it is effective, but cost effective as well. Two of the best foods I have bought and I keep using hands down right now is Jake's ca+ sticks (which if anyone has a cost effective equivalent alternative to besides Ken's - please let me know! ) and Snowflake (works for me despite the brand.)

yepper. Too soft gh and the molt won't come off, too high gh and the molt isn't flexible to come off. Like dying in a stone. Each shrimp species has its own best gh.

I've tried the DB, and granted I don't do displays- so that may be why I don't understand the rimless or black silicone hubbub, or "beautiful" tanks, but I've found cheap tenners work best for my purposes. Playing with different selections, they are small, but still large enough for ~stable params, cheap enough to be bought readily, and self contained in case any unknown break out occurs (hyda, bacterial, etc.) so I won't have problems with huge tank infections (at least not yet. I may change my mind in the future.)

Hungle, rock on! I do have a question though. You said snow what was used to take out the black. Are you replacing a layer of black underneath with whit, so you see blue bolt blue? I know they use CWB for creating Hulks and blue jellies, so using snows for better shadows, BB or RB makes total sense!

How long should a bottle of ae last for a tenner? I have many tanks (over 40) and trying to decide if it is worth the cost for me with so many.

So I have a question. If one wanted high quality opaque coverage of white snow white with no blue tint, then would you still look for blue tint- or pick without blue tint?

Awesome info

Thanks!

You can place a wtb in the market. There's a fish section there now.

But you have to cut your own glass then...and that scares the heck out of me.

This may help you out: http://regalplastics.net/aquarium.htm

Lowest I can find at Lowes, Menards or Homedepot is 40w daylight florescent equivalent.

If they molt when they have eggs, the eggs will still be in the molt. Often they molt after they release the shrimplets.