JamesHe

the nice thing about Sulawesi 7.5 is it dissolves MUCH easier so if you are only keeping Sulawesi's you might just want to do the 7.5.  The 8.5 was created later specifically for the harder to keep species from other lakes.

1, Stressed
2, Gene

salt water dip may solve it.

1, Stressed
2, Gene

You need limiter, otherwise the waste water to RO water ratio would be high.

1, Stressed
2, Gene

he is using bigcommerce

I always thought Royal Blue Tigers were a lighter shade of blue, at least from the ones I saw when they first started appearing in the hobby a couple years ago.  


 
Maybe it is just the way they are (back)lit in photos and videos but it just seem that the European ones are a lighter shade of blue.  My black tigers (with Royal Blue gene) look quiet similar to most of the ones I seen labelled as Royal Blue Tigers these days:
 

 
Before I saw this post i was going to start a new thread asking what makes a Royal Blue Tiger vs. a Black Tiger.  I think over the years my Black Tiger have developed more towards Royal Blue tigers than black tigers as they are all more dark blue than black these days.

Looks nice, which software you're using?

Well.... Time has finally come... I made a WEBSITE!!!!
 
I know you are all excited as much as I'm hahaha...
 
Its still going be a long process to add everything so bare with me.
 
Once items are added i'll slowly add photos as I go especially for the plants.
 
Then I'll start tweaking the site to look better.
 
Shipping wise is still be worked out... But If your looking to order something still Message me first and then i'll ask you to try out the website
 
Thank you all for your continue business!
 
I wouldn't be here without ALL you!
 
http://www.HanAquatics.com
 
Or click my banner below
 
Any comments or suggestions are definitely welcome!
 
Thanks,
 
-Han

for macro photography, here is what I do:
 
1, you need macro lens to get 1:1 live size photo, (105mm/F2.8, or 200mm/F4 which is better) very expensive. other option, get extension tube (Nikon PK-13) for 50mm or 35mm prime lens, what I have now.
2, use external flash (SB800) with extension cord or monolight (WhiteLightning 1600). put on top of tank with glass cover. flash is super fast, > 1/1000s, can freeze any motion of shrimp.
3, close the aperture to min, give you max depth of field, as in macro photography, depth of field is very shallow.
4, set ISO to 100. reduce the noise level.
5, shutter speed 1/60-1/250 depends on body.
6, no need for tripod, handhold is ok as flash freeze everything.
 
I'm a Nikon guy, you may find similar item if you use Canon.

Questions about the heat pack, it requires oxygen to active.
 
does it absorb too much oxygen in the box that shrimp in the breather bag would suffer?
 
any heat pack can work for 48 hours?

Actually, I do.
 
I fill up the bucket, turn on the airpump for a day. add GH+ then do the water change.
 
It helps stabilizing the pH after gas out the CO2.

Nick, check PM

Hello everyone,
 
I realized recently that we do not have an article dedicated to the topic of shipping shrimp. The goal of this article is to give people that are new to shipping shrimp some ideas about how that we do it. I realize that with anything in this hobby there is more than one way to do this. Some things or items that I use will not work for everyone and they may have a different opinion. I am always open for different ideas, Im just writing up what I know and what has worked for me!
 
So you got some shrimp and have had them a for awhile and you are getting to the point that you want to sell off some of your stock. The easiest way is to find a LFS or someone in the hobby around your area to trade or sell to. The downfall to this is they usually will only give you credit or you wont get what you want out of your shrimp that you spent all this time and effort into raising. That is when you turn to the forum that you use and get information from and that led you to the article! The great thing about turning to an online is your in direct connection with someone that truly is looking for the exact quality livestock that you carry. There are a number of things that go into a sale once you both agree to send the shrimp,
 
Initial 3 Questions to get answered before shipping:
 
First: Getting Paid lol, keep it safe and always use Paypal and do not send until the payment is in your account. Common sense but some people are new to online selling.
 
2nd: Make sure the party you are sending to and you have came to an agreement on shipping costs and speed. Many people take the chance and send USPS Priority Mail. It takes 2 days to get about anywhere, it is not guaranteed shipping though so things can and will happen to your package. There is usually little chance of DOA shrimp unless it is lost for more than a week. Now this is really just for the shrimp strains that can handle being in the bag that long such as the Neocaridina Species. Taiwan Bees and other less hardy strains should get shipped a little quicker, although I have seen them both do good in two day shipping.
 
3rd: Pick a day to ship and setup with the buyer to be home when the package arrives. You can instruct them to call the post office to hold the package at the office for pickup. You can also write on the box hold for pickup before you send, 9 times out of 10 if they dont call the office it will still get delivered. This is where damage to the shrimp comes in, when it is delivered it is in a box that is usually black and holds heat, on 95F days this will roast the shrimp in a matter of minutes. The same goes for the cold to the heatpack used is usually at the end of its breath when it reaches you.
 
 
Items to use for shipping
 
 

 
What you need to decide is what will work for you and how you want to protect your valuable livestock. First would be the package size that you want to use. For a small order with 1 or 2 bags you can use the 7x7x6 box which can be ordered here at the USPS Free Boxes. They will deliver these to your house. Check the site for other odd shaped boxes as most will only carry the flate rate boxes at the store. The flat rate boxes are not really good for this situation because it does not cost that much to ship a box of shrimp.
 
Next you need it is best to ship the shrimp in a breather bag. They are very simple in the concept they allow Co2 gas to exit and O2 to enter the bag. That is how they can stay in the bag a few days because they have little bioload and they can breathe. The best way is to not feed them for a day or two before you go. Another great trick is to add a little bit of Seachem Purigen
to the bag. This way it will absorb the little waste that may accumilate during transit.
 
 

 
Kordon Breather Bags are the bag of choice in the hobby for shipping shrimp. Up until recently there wasnt anyone else that made these, from what I hear thier patent expired so a chinese company is making something called the Ultimate Breather bag. I have used both and think they both do the same job and havent found a reason not to use either. Just be sure to check for any leaks prior to putting in box. I have had some leak that I caught before the box made it out. Another VERY important step is to include a piece of moss, plant or other material for the shrimp to hang on during transit. This is why conventional fish bags are not good for shrimp, they are somewhat more fragile and sloshing around in the bag causes undue stress that could later contribute to thier death. Another key thing to remember is that you need to wrap the bag in newspaper or something similar, papertowels are sometimes used. Not sure what this does but was always told by the company to do this so I do.
 

 
 
Seachem Purigen is another key part that can be used in the bag when shipping. If you buy this be sure to buy the 250Ml or larger because the 100 bags are sealed and would not be as effecient. You only need a very tiny amount just a few in the bag and it will help absorb anything that is bad in the water caused by the shrimp.
 
Insulation and Packing Materials
 
Now that we have gone into what to use to package the shrimp, you also have to think about what your going to line the box with to add a little crush resistance and to keep the bag from rolling around in the box. There are a number of ways to do this. Some people will buy a sheet of insulation that you can find at Lowes and just cut to fit to line the boxes. There are also some sites that sell premolded foam to fit in the boxes. The ones that I use are located from TSK Shipping supplies and here is the preview of them.
 
 

 
These fit perfectly into the priority mail box and provide excellent protection. I line my box with packing peanuts, insulation, newspaper or whatever else you have laying around your house.
 
 
Heat & Cold Packs
 
One of the main points in shipping shrimp and fish is to be cautious of the weather. It may be perfect where you live but out in Texas it may be 100F which would result in loss of a package. You can find Dry Gel Cold packs here, I use these ones because the shipping to you are cheap because they are dry, all you simply do is soak them in water for 15 mins and then freeze them. When using cold packs tape one to the bottom of the lid of the box, do not allow any part of it to touch the actual bag of shrimp, this could cause alot of problems for you when its traveling. Being that these are so cheap you can have the option of adding one for an extra fee, I usually just place mine in sandwhich sized bags and then just tape the bag to the top. Just make sure that there is enough room when you shove the lid down that it doesnt smash against the bag. Use these is standard when 70-80 temps. I normally do not ship if it over that temperature, I am more comfortable shipping shrimp in the dead of winter than in the summer. The heat packs seem to work alot better than the cold packs.
 

 
Heat Packs are used when shipping in cooler temperatures, these need to be factored into your shipping price as these run a bit more than the cold packs do. These are really the same instructions as the cold packs in regards that you should not allow them to touch the bag at all during shipping. It also is advised to open the pack activate it and let it get to full heat before putting into the box. This will allow you to be sure that there is a stable temperature in the box, chances are you will get a high amount of heat first and then it will cool off as it goes. They do work though and have gotten packages when it was -20 outside and during a snowstorm and the pack was still warm.
 
 
 
 
 
More to follow: Will finish this later...

I received one from Han last night, I use it this morning to catch some shrimp, it works very well.
 
put some food at front, then it's pretty easy to catch it.
 
My CRS loves snowflake as well.
 

Received 3D net. very good quality, thanks!

you did 16% of it.

you did 16% of it.

you did 16% of it.

for macro photography, here is what I do:
 
1, you need macro lens to get 1:1 live size photo, (105mm/F2.8, or 200mm/F4 which is better) very expensive. other option, get extension tube (Nikon PK-13) for 50mm or 35mm prime lens, what I have now.
2, use external flash (SB800) with extension cord or monolight (WhiteLightning 1600). put on top of tank with glass cover. flash is super fast, > 1/1000s, can freeze any motion of shrimp.
3, close the aperture to min, give you max depth of field, as in macro photography, depth of field is very shallow.
4, set ISO to 100. reduce the noise level.
5, shutter speed 1/60-1/250 depends on body.
6, no need for tripod, handhold is ok as flash freeze everything.
 
I'm a Nikon guy, you may find similar item if you use Canon.

for macro photography, here is what I do:
 
1, you need macro lens to get 1:1 live size photo, (105mm/F2.8, or 200mm/F4 which is better) very expensive. other option, get extension tube (Nikon PK-13) for 50mm or 35mm prime lens, what I have now.
2, use external flash (SB800) with extension cord or monolight (WhiteLightning 1600). put on top of tank with glass cover. flash is super fast, > 1/1000s, can freeze any motion of shrimp.
3, close the aperture to min, give you max depth of field, as in macro photography, depth of field is very shallow.
4, set ISO to 100. reduce the noise level.
5, shutter speed 1/60-1/250 depends on body.
6, no need for tripod, handhold is ok as flash freeze everything.
 
I'm a Nikon guy, you may find similar item if you use Canon.

It's only 4 months old at the time I took the photo.
 
it colors up very nicely few months later, but unfortunately I can't find any other photo now. I missed it.
 
I will try again later sometime.
 
I heard GBR has short life span, but my lonely female is about 2 years and 4 months old, and still looks healthy.

size at some point matters.
 
the bigger the tank, the more stable the water parameters.
 
but too big is not good thing as well. shrimp seems more stressed if number is low in big tank.
 
and for selective breeding, number always keep on the low side.
 
so personally, I like 20L for all above points.

Regardless of the terms if your goal is the solid red / white found in high grade PRL, using CRS that's been crossed with CBS will definitely set you back many generations as you will have to breed out the CBS genes.  
 
Honestly, if you want to develop your own PRL line I would start with some high quality JPRL / PRL lines instead - breeder grade S or higher and go from there. Do some research on which line have the characteristics you want and go from there.
 
At the end of the day, the quality or reputation your "brand" of your line will depend on the quality of the shrimps you are producing.