JamesHe

My lab Max.

it just takes time.
 
normally CRS has all genes, mosura would pop out, once you have enough offspring.

you are luck that LFS takes shrimp from you.
 
In my area, LFS doesn't take anything, even not donation.

This is true. Snowflake lacks many of the vital nutrients that would attribute to the overall health and wellness of shrimps. Realistically, it's mainly protein and sugar that's contained in the snowflake that's so yummy and desirable to shrimps if we're really breaking it down and analyzing it. But you know what I've realized? It doesn't matter if I'm spending $30+ on a single food product designed to give shrimps all the health benefits and vitamins they need if they refuse to touch it. If they refuse to eat that super great and healthy product design to provide them with all the advantages to grow big and healthy, then that product I bought just became a money sink (guess what, I do have these products). Additionally, I'm a firm believer that shrimps should be getting proper nutrients from algae and other microbs growing inside the tank. Unless a tank is newly setup or bare they should be constantly picking away and eating from food sources grown inside their tanks. All my tanks are heavily planted with moss and stems here and there so I rarely stress or analyze such things.
Also, I do feel like what we activity feed our shrimps are actually more treats/snacks for them. A majority of keepers here don't make our own foods so how can you truly testify what's going into our shrimps mouths? (Not trashing or saying other foods are bad, don't get me wrong) It's more of a "peace of mind" that we're dropping into the tanks if we look at it from your perspective. We see them swarm and gather around what we feed and it makes us happy. We see them ignore the food and we instantly develop the idea that the food is inferior or bad.
I know I like a nice juicy piece of steak or a nice sweet piece of desert more than I like green beans and veggies, I'll tell you that much! [emoji4]

Have you seen this? It was just announced a few days ago. It has been reported before but I think MK has the colony more stable now.
 
What do you think about this morph?
 
 

 
 

I have two CRS in it on days 7, they are just doing fine.
 

never use cover for my heater.
 
so it should be fine, as long as you have good circulation in the tank.

I know, I was as shocked as you are a year or so ago. This is not his idea but from someone "up" who didn't want to share this trick until after half a bottle of whisky equivalent ;-)

Not to mention the stress of shipping on a berried fem may kill her anyway.

GH is pretty low, that surprises me.

Sorry for the slow response....MK gave me the information but I have been busy during the past weekend, here are the answers to the previous question.
 
MK's PRL Tank Parameters: GH2, PH6, TDS 80-90.

Tank Setup Procedure:
- Lay a think layer of substrate.
- Spread about 15g of MK-BREED Silver Powder.
- Then lay another layer of fine substrate.
- Flatten the substrate.
- In the canister, fill with filter media, add another 15g of the MK-BREED Silver Powder in the canister.
- Fill the tank with RO, turn on the canister filter.
- After one day (tank water should be clear), dump the remainder of the MK-BREED Silver Powder in the tank water.
- Then do weekly water change and add 1 spoon of MK-BREED Golden Powder.
- Also use MK-BREED Blue Diamond to boost the GH and other minerals, plus MK-BREED Blood Diamond for trace and mineral supplements.
- Use MK-BREED Life Balls to stablize the water and suppress algae growth.


Cooling-wise (it gets very hot in Taiwan), I use air conditioner 24hr/day.

Substrate, I use ADA fine and regular grain substrate.

Plant-wise, I use mainly moss and may use other plants that don't affect shrimp observation.

Decoration-wise, I use drift wood.
 

I will use clear epoxy instead.

I thought this indicates shrimp is ready to molt.

click to see the full size. young baby on the glass.
 

stage is the phase of my breeding program.
 
I will run the first stage for couple months, until I have good number of TB.
 
I will keep mischling in one tank and TB in second tank, and let them grow out. so mischling male x TB female won't happen.
 
in the second stage, I will remove all mischling males. so I will have only mischling female, TB female and TB male.
I can keep all in one tank. any offspring looks like CRS/CBS would be culled.
 
Later in third stage, I will keep one TB tank with mix type and one tank for WR only. I love WR,

This post has been promoted to an article
 
Special thanks to Soothing Shrimp and Hungle64 for reviewing, editing, and suggestions on this article.

This is more or less a short write up to give you a basic understanding of how Dominant a Recessive genes work. This would help you possibly breed out a mutation (considering that is what most colors or traits come from), or understand how to cull out shrimp to get more consistent traits.

I wrote this so I can better understand the subject by putting it into my own words, but also to start documenting my research and things I have learned onto a single forum so others may interject to teach me more, or learn with me if you too are a newbie like me. Please take this writing as it is, such that I am not experience and my schooling is in Business and finance, not genetics or biophysics. I should not be taken as an expert in any form or way and just get my information from multiple resources which in return may be wrong as-well. Please double check all sources before taking it as fact.

Ok, first off we need to know the basis of gene before we can go into any discussion. Remember any living animals basically have 2 sets of each gene, one received by the father and one received by the mother. This combination of genes is what solely determines what physical traits the offspring display.

Genes are broken into more or less 2 types (more details and break downs to come), recessive and dominant. Recessive genes are the “weaker” genes and will be over shadowed by a dominant gene in the physical sense. But just because this trait is not apparent, does not mean it isn’t present in the genes.

To better understand this concept, you must first know what combinations can occur, and how they are physically represented. For the rest of this article let’s assume we are trying to breed a RECESSIVE GENE since this will happen more likely than not (a dominant gene “should” always breed out naturally because of evolution).

There are basically 3 types of gene combinations (Part II will build onto this)
1) Dominant/Dominant (D/D) – This shrimp will not display the trait, nor will it ever pass the gene down to any offspring. The best offspring you will ever get with this shrimp is a carrier, and only if breeding with a Recessive/Recessive, or a Carrier. Ideally when culling, these are the shrimp we are trying to cull, since they greatly reduce the number of shrimp showing the trait.

2) Dominant/Recessive (D/R & Carrier) – This shrimp will not display the trait, but have the possibility of passing this gene down to offspring. When this occurs we call it a “carrier” of the gene. This occurrence is also why many breeders suggest keeping multiple generations of offspring even if they don’t exactly show the trait you are breeding. If you cull these you are potentially removing more breeders of the trait, which also would offer more variances in the genetic pool (an opinion that is somewhat contested whether it effects how hardy the shrimp are or not).

3) Recessive/Recessive (R/R) – This shrimp will show the trait and is the goal you are working towards. In a normal world an R/R bread with a R/R will have all R/R babies. From what I have read this doesn’t always happen with shrimp, but more or less gives you the advantage, and the basic idea of your goal.

There is a somewhat simple way to figure out which shrimp you want to breed with which, I will give you a few examples of situations and what you could most likely expect in the offspring.

Both Parents are D/D
Dominant Gene Dominant Gene
Dominant Gene D/D – Doesn’t show or carry trait (Cull) D/D – Doesn’t show or carry trait (Cull)
Dominant Gene D/D – Doesn’t show or carry trait (Cull) D/D – Doesn’t show or carry trait (Cull)

One D/R Parent, and one D/D parent
Dominant Gene Recessive Gene
Dominant Gene D/D – Doesn’t show or carry trait (Cull) D/R – Carries trait, doesn’t show
Dominant Gene D/D – Doesn’t show or carry trait (Cull) D/R – Carries trait, doesn’t show

Both Parents are D/R
Dominant Gene Recessive Gene
Dominant Gene D/D – Doesn’t show or carry trait (Cull) D/R – Carries trait, doesn’t show
Recessive Gene D/R – Carries trait, doesn’t show R/R – Shows Trait (Goal)

Both Parents are R/R
Recessive Gene Recessive Gene
Recessive Gene R/R – Shows Trait (Goal) R/R – Shows Trait (Goal)
Recessive Gene R/R – Shows Trait (Goal) R/R – Shows Trait (Goal)

As you can see, this is why many breeders do not instantly sell culls after the first generation. This Generation, while not all exhibiting the trait, may be carriers. Selling carriers lessens the opportunity to have more breeders who birth more “trait showing shrimp”. In fact, many of the breeders I have read about keep up to 3 generations before selling the culls, this requires multiple tanks (Gen1, Gen2 Culls, Gen3 Culls, then a Selling tank), and requires moving juveniles to another tank with the possibility of losing them to acclimation problems. This is why you see multiple hobby breeders just have a trait tank and cull tank.

This is just a basic intro into what I am looking up and reading on. I do plan on adding more since this just scratches the surface of the basic information that is required before a more in-depth knowledge of selective breeding topics. I decided to start simple on my personal learning and go from there, and like I said, I might as-well type it up while I am doing it.

As per Soothing’s information, while this possibility works for CRS & TB shrimp, Neo’s tend to follow more confusing lines that deal with co-dependent genes (allele) and the bell curve. Part II I will talk about those instances in order to build on this some more.

Please feel free to comment in any way as this might help me figure out where to research and head next, or correct any misinformation I might have wrote. I will try to keep this first post updated with any edits and give credit where credit is due.
 

Wow, I missed by 1.

The stuff us awesome in tanks. It makes the water crystal clear and works great. I use a tiny bit in shipping to for extra measure. I swear by it and it won't affect the chemistry in your water. It absorbs bad stuff releases nothing.
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I use glass cover, and leave 1" on both sides.
works pretty well for me.