Vpier

Okay, a seriously negative sounding title...but it did get your attention, right? And this IS kind of a serious topic! Yet,  I will punctuate it with a little touch of sarcasm...Of course!
People ask me if anything about our business keeps me awake at night. Other than shipments being lost, and the other usual minutiae of running any business, I'd have to say that the possibility of someone "nuking" their tank is the one thing I worry about most.

We've been working with botanicals for a few years now, and offering them to customers  for just over a year now (can you believe that?), and with an ever-growing global customer base, the possibility of someone screwing up big-time and killing all of their fishes because they didn't follow our instructions is more of a possibility than before, I'm afraid..You know, it's kind of a "numbers" game, I suppose...
Surpisingly, we've only had maybe one or two incidents of someone having a serious problem, and they were both caused by the aquarist failing to heed our advice about preparation and adding materials slowly to an established aquarium... (click to read more)

It all depends on how impure your water source is.
 
Everyone's water is different and filters will vary on usage because of it.

I have a couple of Caridina sulawesi var. bandit (Sulawesi crown shrimp “Bandit”) packages for sale (exclusively for Shrimp Spot members).

The offer is for 15 unsexed subadults or adults + a few shrimplets (as bonus) from my main breeding colony (no culls) as seen in the pictures and youtube video below for US$160, including USPS Priority Shipping, in the continental USA.

I have been selectively breeding this line for about four years and offer it for the first time for sale.

My goals were to increase the black and white coverage and I also selected for the banded (bandit) phenotype. As for neos, the females show more intense colors.

Caridina sulawesi are very prolific and hardy shrimps. I have kept them at pH ranging from 6.2 – 8.5. The shrimps that I have for sale were kept at pH 6.8, KH = 2-3 and GH = 5-6.

The colors and patterns are more intense at acidic pH. I don’t recommend a KH below 1.

It is unlikely that they will interbreed with any common aquarium shrimp species.

DOA is covered (excluding shipping costs) when the shipment is accepted upon the first delivery attempt, a clear picture of the dead shrimps inside the originally closed bag is sent and the claim is emailed no later than 2 hours after delivery.
I can ship on September, 12., or September, 13. 2016.

Links to previous posts about C. sulawesi:

http://www.shrimpspot.com/index.php?/topic/3605-hello-from-manhattan-kansas/#comment-50042

http://www.shrimpspot.com/index.php?/topic/1122-sulawesi-shrimp-collection/#comment-15952



 

 

I have used his product several times and didn't have any problems with my shrimps. If used as directed it works. I made sure to do small water changes once a week while using algae killer.

The bigger you can go the better. The larger the volume of water is the more stable and more forgiving it will be. You will have to be more diligent when it comes to tank maintenance and water quality with smaller tanks.  10 gallon tanks are generally cheaper than most smaller tanks especially during the dollar a gallon sale. I like 10's for breeding.

Problem solved tank you so much!

The out flow of the lift tube has to be at water level in order to work properly.  Air can move a ton of water but it cant lift it above the water level as well as a mechanical pump like a powerhead..  If you add more water and raise the level you will see more water flowing out.

The out flow of the lift tube has to be at water level in order to work properly.  Air can move a ton of water but it cant lift it above the water level as well as a mechanical pump like a powerhead..  If you add more water and raise the level you will see more water flowing out.

I'm absolutely impressed with your work. Congrats and Bravo!

I hope you all don't mind me sharing this here as well! I recently submitted an article about shrimp macro photography to Photography Life, and they decided to publish it! I hope you all enjoy it too  
 
https://photographylife.com/aquarium-macro-photography-of-ornamental-shrimp

Could they have died? Shrimps will eat dead shrimps.  Also shrimps can be vulnerable after a molt, especially female's. If a female molts and you have to many males, they can kill the female trying to mate.

Basically, I have to look at myself in the mirror and know I'm doing everything possible to do what I consider to be the right thing.

Got my RRFs! HUGE Portions. Healthy long roots, which are BRIGHT red and pink. Leaves just as pictured. So pretty. 
They take a day or so to flatten out, so you have to try and train the leaves so they dont get wet, but they are cooperative- and BEAUTIFUL. 
Just after I put them in and was still fussing with the leaves:

SHRIMP ATTACK!

Auction Closed.

Auction Closed.

Auction Closed.

I have 4 12x12 cubes and purchased these support clips and went to my local glass place. You could do the same with plexiglass.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/390877876243?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

You can increase the amount of organic acids in the water. Leaf littler or driftwood will do this. Probably not as fast as the stuff above^

http://www.theshrimptank.com/water-conditioners/mosura-tds-up-40gm/
TDS of 150 is near the higher end for me but is fine, 90 is to low. 130 TDS is where I keep my caridina shrimps. You can add a little more SS and raise the GH to 6 and you should be fine.

I'm always envious of your artistic talents when it comes to scaping.

I'm always envious of your artistic talents when it comes to scaping.

Remember that your RO's PH isnt really a true PH since there is nothing in the water to buffer. Its takes very little TDS to change the PH. My RO's PH can also differ (+- 3-6) at different times of the year.
Make your changes slowly. Depending on what shrimps you have the 10% should be fine until you have achieved 100%. I would try one tank and see what happens.
  What kind of substrate are you using and is there anything in the tanks that could increase the hardness and PH?

Hi everybody!
 
I have been quiet lately as we moved house and life, but wanted to share my new rack.
The tanks are 120*45*30cm, divided in 4. The middle tanks will be replaced with the same as on the top and bottom shelve.
 

 
 
Top tank is still cycling and I will transfer all the CRS to this one, according to grade, S grade left, SS grade second left, SSS grade second right and TB in right tank
 

 

 
Same will happen with the middle tank, as with grading and then golden bees in the right side tank
 

 

 
Bottom is Neos, left are culls, second left are dreamy blues, second right are Taiwan Fire reds and normal tigers and then left are blue jelly.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
I will update as I go along

really nice setups!

Been too embarrassed to post any pics cause I suck at it. These were taken with my Ipod. These babies are the results of Shrimpscales BKK, Joes BKK misch and Mayphly's taitibees that produce steel blues.