Brolly33

Sold.  Thanks!

Well,  I just read the rules...  and I guess I am not actually allowed to point people at Craig's list. 

So if you are interested, please PM me and we will work the sale through this Forum.

Leaving Florida (St. Petersburg).

90 Gallon + 20 long sump/refugium + CO2 setup (Milwaukee  MA-957 + 5lb tank) is up for grabs for $200 - Local pickup.

Stand, lights, everything.

(selling via tampa craig's list - search for it if you are interested or PM me for the link)

deadline Oct 26, when I will donate it to the local elementary school.

I have two new 10g cycled and ready to go, one for pintos and one for red wines, both have SL-aquasoil for substrate. Right now the pH is about 6.0 in both tanks, the TDS is 40-42, and the GH is about 2.5. 
 
Do you have a recommendation for raising the TDS and the GH? I am using RO water.
 
Thanks!

I try to keep nitrate at 0. 10 was enough to kill my oebt over time. 

I have been having decent results with CRS/mischlings in less than 10ppm using Flourish. But slow growth and not high tech

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ok so I have put some limits on the upload size of photos.  The photo above was originally 5mb and 5312x2988 and was resized to about 1000x750 which is the new size limit (this was previously the display limit so the photos would show up this size but previously you could click and view the full size).  This photo is now only 84kb so this should help a lot with some of the storage problems.

It's a shrimpy pop from Han!
http://www.hanaquatics.com/boss-shrimpy-pops/
glad you enjoyed the video! [emoji5]

@Mr.F what is that interesting dirty stick that your shrimp cleaned for you? It almost looks like you took a bamboo shish-kabob skewer and left it in a bucket outside for a few months to grow stuff on it as a shrimp treat...

The video was so entertaining that I watched it 4 times.

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It was this one that really reminded me that I was on the internet:

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/100-low-tech-forum/1089225-my-75g-no-water-change-tank.html

I have both Salty shrimp and SL Aqua Blue Wizard the green bottle. I must say using SL Aqua is very easy and convenient. However I do have a question while we on the same topic.

We usually drip water in shrimp tanks to avoid fluctuation in the water para instantly, so with ss you prepare the mix and drip added it. I also read with SL Aqua it can be added directly into the tank with the shrimp.

Doesn't the change in Gh and tds affect shrimps ?

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I myself add small fertilizer and remineralize in a 5 gallon bottle. Then I do a 10% water change from that container once a week for a month. The incoming and outgoing water are close enough that my shrimp don't seem to mind. My TDS go down about 10 points during the change and my GH does not budge. I could drip it in, but in practice it does not seem to make a difference for me.

I have seen other members like@bostoneric talk about just adding raw RO directly to the tank and adjust with SLAqua Blue Wizard right in the tank, using TDS pen to know when to stop adding.

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Thank you. So I will continue using it instead of making it zero in this way I can still get me drinking water. An for remineralizing will consider the 20 tds and work around it. Would that approach work ?


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Will check it tonight but I think it's 0-1

How will I know if it's zero coz I need to add 1 drop and if it changes Colour then kh 1

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This is a limitation of titration style test kits. You cannot test for zero. Less than one is as close as you will be able to test for.

One drop is generally less than 1 degree of hardness, depending on your specific test kit.

Your TDS meter at 20 ppm also means that your KH cannot be much higher than 1 (1dH =17.8ppm).

20 ppm should be fine for top offs. For water changes, you will need to remineralize for your shrimp as well to replace the calcium and magnesium that they need for their shells and for good health.

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I have been watching an absolute religious war on the benefits of water changes over on TPT for the last 2 weeks or so. The thread is just full of all the worst kinds of internet zealots.

It made me realize how civilized, open and generally supportive the community here at Shrimp Spot is. And I am grateful for it.

I have a lightly planted shrimp tank, primarily slow growers, that has been doing pretty well since June 2015.

I use very light ferts at water change only. Seachem Florish (2ml per 5 gallon of RO) and I change about 10% every week in my 12 gallon.

ControlSoil as buffering substrate.

August post has full tank shots:

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/12-tank-journals/947458-12-long-slow-56k-warning-2.html#post9466401

Initially I was dosing 1ml/5Gallons and tank was running out of nitrates (nitrate deficiency showing on the Anubias) so I bumped it up. 

I still get regular berries and tank seems very stable.

Low GH (or high GH) can cause moulting problems, which would happen 1 shrimp at a time.

I am leaning towards the change to distilled as the cause. You have a 5 gallon tank. Your water change is 20% (1 gallon) every two weeks.

Changes in water parameters, like that first time you used pure distilled, will frequently trigger breeding (survival instinct... water changing, we might all die off, better breed quick).

Sustained water variability will crash the colony.

Every time you take water out manually, you take minerals out with it. If you don't add them back in, you will eventually drive your GH all the way to 0.

If you are topping off evaporation, then use your pure distilled. Because evaporation leaves the minerals behind, you are restoring the balance.

On water change day, you might want to consider tap water, or remineralize your distilled with one of the fine remineralizers on the market.

Shrimp love consistency.

Slowly raise your GH back to about 5 or 6 and you should recover.

My opinion above is based on reading the internet and running a colony for about 2 years. I crashed a colony of RCS by switching to RO water and not remineralizing. I hope this helps you.

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Hi everyone,
 
I have a 5-6 month tank with different species shrimp (bees, cherries, amanos, etc.) in it and I just can't seem to get a grip on die offs. The following is all my water parameters. What can I be doing wrong here? Can lack of oxygen be an issue? They are very still before they die. Underfeeding? I was feeding once every 2-3 days, but now I give a bit each day since theres many shrimp in the tank. My most successful period of time was this last summer where many shrimp were berried and doing so well. Nothing has changed and I just don't get it.
 
5 gallon
Distilled water only
ADA Amazonia Aquasoil
No plants
Filtration- filter floss and Purigen
Nitrate- 0 (rarely goes to 0-5)
Nitrite- 0
Ammonia- 0 (rarely goes up to 0.25)
pH- 6.6-6.8
Kh- 0
Gh- 4-5
TDS- 171
Temperature- 72
 
ANY suggestions would really help me out here.
 
Thanks everyone

Hello,

So I just set up a new shrimp tank (20gal), finished cyclind about 2 weeks ago. I added about 20 RCS
but they are dying daily, and the ones that are alive arent moving.

So I tested my water and it is as below:


ammonia- 0
nitrite - 0
nitrate - 7~8
PH- 7.0
KH - 2 DROP THEN TURNED WHITE/SLIGHTLY YELLOW
GH - 4 DROP THEN TURNED VERY SLIGHT GREEN.

I think the KH and GH is the problem. Not sure. 1st time testing for gh and kh.

Will these water parameters be better for crystal red shrimps??

If not, I will get some equilibrium and baking soda to raise gh and kh

PLEASE INPUT!

I NEED HELP. MY SHRIMPS DYING!

Parameters you gave should work fine for Red cherry Shrimp - Neocardinia

Shipping stress is my first suspicion. Did you contact the seller for advice?

Toxin or pathogen in the tank? Copper treatments or medicines?

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I am worried because I changed media in my canister filter and my pH has increased from 5.4 to 6.  I am monitoring continuously with Pinpoint.  Not only that, but when I unplug my filter the readings immediately drop by .5.  So when my filter has power my pH is .5 higher than without it.  Should I be worried? Just when I think I've figured out science, it goes all wobbly on me.  Any advice wood be greatly appreciated.
ty

The flowers are not aquatic at all I grow plumerias and that color of the flowers is from my cool aid morph.

Any idea of ID?

 

Leaf shape and rhizome looks like buce?

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What's everyone think of the logos.

Yummy biofilm! I usually keep my front glass clean, but the rest get a whitish cross between slimy and dusty looking.


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http://www.usashrimpcontest.com

 Looks like it is a contest inside of a larger, general aquarium convention http://aquaticexperience.org

Our very own Grant Eder will be one of the judges.

Chris Lukhaup is one of the headline speakers.

Looks like an awesome weekend!

Anyone going to Chicago in November?

LoL That's the attitude. :-p

 

The name is Community Theatre.

 

It's a goofy comedy about starting a community theatre and putting up a show without any money. It's shot in a mock-umentary style. 

I took out too much water on one of my water changes due to a catlike distraction. I just put it back into the tank.

If your pH is stable at 7.6, I would not mess with the KH of 2. Let the tank sit stable for a week and go back to your regular water change cycle. KH is effectively a buffer to pH, so your event may have pushed pH far enough to have lowered your KH to a new equilibrium point.

Easy test. Make a new batch of RO and remineralize as normal. Test KH.




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