ILikeAsianBooty

-weekly 10% w/c today. played around with s9 camera some more
-updated pics on f1 shadow pandas+others
-berried black zebra released her clutch today. got about over half a dozen f1 blueish zebra from what i could find. couldnt really get a good picture of them. may selectively breed them, im not sure yet.
-the other berried blue bolt should release in around 2 weeks from now
-may get some mosura ebb, but dont think they quite fit in this tank so im not too sure atm.
-btw, is anyone adding iodine in their tanks? im not too sure of the benefits of it, but its included in my other remineralizer that i use.
 
Black zebra+babies


 
Previous batch, growing well

 

 
Random pics

I saw that, I just try to refrain from recommending things I haven't tried yet.  
 
Please do!

Snowballs bucephalandra tank

 

 

 

-and shes berried! Lets hope she makes it!
-finally got some babies from the 3rd batch that looks like they will make it. Sorry for the bad quality pics. Got a nice 1 stripe red wine from a 3 stripe x black zebra.
-13% w/c today
-also notice colors tend to change due to parameters. For reference, the berried BB was an EBB, but degraded to a high. Also have a male EBB thats all white but he fluctuates back and forth to a sky blue.
-last guy idk what he is but ebb x wine red. Doesnt have bb texture.
 

 

Plants and bacteria will also reduce mineral levels in your water if you aren't replenishing them regularly. 
 
Shrimps die for many reasons. Ammonia poisoning (young tanks), bacterial infections (common in warm tanks), parasites, fluctuating parameters, excessive nitrates, failed moltings, etc. Sometimes it just comes down to bad stock. Some of the bloodlines have been linebred for so long to maintain patterns/colors that they seem to suffer from a suppressed immune system. 
 
I wouldn't worry so much about targeting a specific TDS, as long as you have sufficient minerals, many of these shrimp can happily live in TDS ranges from 90-200 ppm. TDS isn't telling the whole story anyways, just that there's so and so many ppm of dissolved solids. Driftwood, leaves, plant waste, fertilizers, etc. all contribute to this. Many of us just use TDS as a rough guideline for water changes because we know where it should be because we started from a remineralized base. As long as it remains consistent, it shouldn't be anything to worry over.
 
As for ferts, as long as you aren't dumping KNO3 to achieve 20-40 ppm like the EI folks, you should be fine dosing ferts. I usually just add a little Flourish and some KH2PO4 to my planted shrimp tanks. I don't dose any nitrate because they hover between 5-10 ppm all on their own with the bioload and feedings. I do small weekly WC to keep it there. 
 
You didn't specify what caridinas you were keeping but generally taiwan bees/pintos do well at 3-5 GH, whereas crystals do better with a GH of about 4-6. These ranges aren't set in stone but have given me the best chance for fry survival. They seem to have an easier time shedding their molts the softer the water is... and molting they do a lot of the first few weeks.
 
ph is nothing to worry over. A tank can cycle just fine under 6 and maintain a bioload there. Seachem Stability is your friend here. I cycled mine in 5 weeks with a pH of 5.5 -6.0. Matter of fact, I don't have a shrimp tank with a pH of over 6. It has been said that the bacteria we need to worry about with caridina species doesn't do so well with acidic water. Combine that with temperatures under 73° F. and you won't have to worry about dosing antibiotics in your tank...ever. 
 
 
 

Doesn't look like it
Female 

Blue bolt and tiger will interbreed I believe.

I have more coming in a month

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Not sure, but I'll let you know..

very good quality shrimps you got there.  fun to look at.

Awww, I wanted the spotted pintos

They all look like females to me, except the darkest one in 3rd picture... hard to tell because it's facing towards camera. Look at the way that second scale is large and rounded at the bottom and it clearly overlaps scales 1 and 3. That's where eggs are stored. Males might have a slightly wider 2nd scale but it doesn't get fatter (and rounded) near bottom or ever overlap other scales.
 

Hey there ! 
Last month, I bought 6 small oebt shrimps that were actually sold as feeders (OMG) and placed them in my cycled Fluval Edge with about 5 Amano Shrimps and a bamboo shrimp . This morning while doing my weekly wc pumping gravel , i  noticed a small pale blue shrimplet ! I was so happy ! 
I wanted to ask for advice of any breeders here in order to give them the best life ☺ I counted about 4 of them but I know for sure that most are hiding in my huge java moss . 
Here are some basic infos :
- pH : 7.0-7.2 
- gH : 5-6 
- kH: 4 
- T° : 23°-25° (its usually around 20° but its the hottest days /weeks of year here) 
- Aquaclear 10  with the usual sponge/carbon/bag of white ceramic cubes + sponge to prevent the babies from getting sucked up
- Mopany wood + anubias (where the Bamboo shrimp hangs and feeds with fans ;) 
- Mopany wood with about 4 big handfuls of java moss
- small white gravel
- I feed Hikari crab cuisine + Hikari First bites ( intended to feed the bamboo shrimp) 
- i also feed Omega One Spirulina flakes for the hungry Amano Shrimps every 3 days. 
 
Q:  I wonder how much to feed without overfeeding ? 
Q2 : Should i feed something else for the berried shrimp shrimplets ? 
Q3 : How often should I vacuum clean with the shrimplets dwelling on the white gravel? 
Q4 : is Melafix every day ok to prevent the common bacterial infections due to higher temps? The temperature hangs around 23-24 ° C 
Q5: What is the approx time between the female giving birth and next time she gets berried? 
 
Thanks in advance for everything !
Lily :)
Ps: the gravel and water is murky because i was vacuuming and doing wc when noticing this tiny lil shrimpy☺☺
 

Hello guys
 
Let me first introduce myself. I'm a 24 year old guy from this tiny country called Belgium. 🍟 Famous of their fries! 
I have been keeping shrimp for about two years. Started like most of us with a bunch of cherries and moved on to all kinds of neo's. 
After breeding these guys quiet succesfully, I tried to get my hands on some caradina species. First started with some F1 crystal red and blacks,  because I did not want to spend a small fortune to some taiwan bee shrimp. So i bred them myself. Over a period of time I got approximately 30 or more taiwan bee , and alot of F1 CB & CR 
 
But after that, things started to go downhill.  Lost a lot of shrimp, and I still don't really know what happend ☹️ At that time I also lost most of my motivation of keeping shrimp.  A small group of shrimp survived the massacre. So now I will try to make a new start with this small colony. 
 
I'm back to only 2 tanks, both have approximately the same size: 
 
aqua 1: 
80cm x 35cm x 40cm
Ph: 6
GH: 5-6
KH: 0-1
TDS: +-110
 
Shrimp species: Some mixture of Crystal Red & Black,  Tangarine Tiger & Tibee. This is gonna be my mix tank for the moment. Untill my colony has some decent size again. 
Plants: Corall moss, Java Fern & and some Bucephalandra. 
Substrate: Akadama
 

 
 
Aqua 2: 
80cm x 35cm x 40cm
Ph: 6
GH: 5-6
KH: 0-1
TDS: +-110
 
Shrimp: Blue bolt ( +-20)
Plants: Java fern,  Anbubias Gold, Subwassertang & Bucephalandra.
Substrate: Akadama
 
 

 
 
So in the future I will try to keep you guys up to date on my progress of my shrimp journey. 
I'm sorry for my english writing and bad quality of pictures, but i'll hope you guys will enjoy this blog anyway. I would like to hear from you guys!
 
 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Aqua 1: 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Not true. Nitrogen converting bacteria reside all over the substrate, sponges, moss, rocks, etc. ADA recommends frequent water changes during the cycling process. Sometimes a water change can actually kick start the cycle again, if ammonia levels are too high.

U gunna get alot of dif answers. I like the Eheim 2213, sun sun, and sponge filter with a canister combo. Theres also HMF which I havent actually got to use yet..

Hello and welcome!

no planaria -> make sure tank is oxygenated -> 50% w/c -> dose again 2x 50%w/c -> tank not good for snails 6+m, havent confirmed that theory 

I do this  ^^^

Good shit! Glad your tank is doing well

babies every where
 
 

I'd like to know this too. I have access to a majority of the leaves that are used in those commercial food mixes, most of which grows right on my property. All 100% organic grown too.  There was a thread posted on another forum back in 2011 that I've used as a rough guide when I started experimenting with different leaves. It gave me an idea of what to hunt for. Although it doesn't list any nutritional values, I found it to be helpful still. These go beyond the typical Mulberry and Stinging Nettles that most like to feed (myself included). Not sure if it's cool to post the link here, so I just highlighted the "meat" of it:
 
Method:
All plants were picked, rinsed, and promptly parboiled in the microwave for 1 minute. The parboiled leaves were then frozen into ice cubes for storage until testing. The leaves were offered to a small tank (3 gallons) of cherry shrimp after not feeding them for 1 day. The shrimp's immediate reaction was noted and the condition of the leaves after 12 hours and 24 hours was recorded. Leaves were removed after 24 hours. No attempt was made to standardize portion size.

Only a single test was done for each leaf type. It is entirely possible that repeated testing would reveal different results. If you try these foods and find that your shrimp react differently, please post your results on this thread. Additionally, some of the plants took much longer to be consumed than others simply because of the quantity available. 

Results:
Apple leaves:
These were very well received. Juvenile shrimp were interested immediately, the leaf was partially consumed within a day. **A caution: Fruit trees are often treated for insects. If you do not know for certain that the tree has not been treated this season, do not use the leaves.**
Immediate: Juveniles before it hit the bottom 12h: Several shrimp 24h: Much interest, leaf partially consumed. 2 days: Gone

Clover - White: Surprisingly little interest. 
Immediate: Investigated but ignored 12h: Untouched 24h: Untouched

Dandelion - Young: Dandelion leaves less than 2" in length were chosen. These were very well received by the shrimp and were completely eaten within an hour. Their response to young dandelion leaves was on par to their response to spinach or turnip greens.
Immediate: High interest 12h: Completely consumed 24h: -

Dandelion - Old: Sections of dandelion leaves with length greater than 5" were chosen. Little interest.
Immediate: High initial interest 12h: Almost untouched 24h: Almost untouched

Grape: Smaller leaves were chosen, less than 4" across. These were very well received and were eaten much more like a tree leaf than a spinach leaf. Aside from young dandelion leaves, these were by far the most popular of the plants I tried.
Immediate: High interest 12h: Numerous shrimp eating 24h: Almost consumed, many shrimp still eating (I let them finish it, as it seemed mean to take away the leaf while they were enjoying it so much.)

Oxalis: Also known as wood sorrel. These were eaten, but there was not the initial rush to devour them that was seen with dandelions and grapes. A small quantity was used, so it is hard to compare the response to something like a grape leaf.
Immediate: Little interest 12h: Almost consumed 24h: Consumed

Broadleaf Plantain - Young and Old: Two separate tests were done with broadleaf plantains (which are not closely related to the tropical bananas of the same name.) Both were underwhelming.
Immediate: Swarmed by juvenile shrimp 12h: Almost untouched 24h: Almost untouched

Raspberry leaves: Ignored initially, devoured later. I left this in the tank for a few days and it wound up being thoroughly enjoyed. The shrimp treated it much more like a tree leaf than a spinach leaf.
Immediate: Some interest 12h: Untouched 24h: Untouched 4 days: Gone

Rose leaves:
Rose leaves are fairly thick, so I expected them to be treated as a tree leaf. There was a surprising amount of interest in the leaf as soon as it was in the water, however, and the shrimp were still nibbling at it 24 hours later. Four days out, it was consumed completely. **A caution: Roses are some of the most heavily treated plants people keep in their gardens. If you are uncertain about whether a rose bush has been treated, do not use the leaves.**
Immediate: Moderate interest 12h: Appearance unchanged, shrimp still interested 24h: Some holes, shrimp still interested 4 days: Gone

Rose Petal: Very difficult to sink, devoured once it hit bottom. My shrimp rarely swim up to floating food, so there was no surprise when this didn't attract a lot of interest while bumping around at the top of the tank. Gone in a couple of hours once it hit bottom. Times are from when it finally sank. Next spring I hope to test apple, pear, and multiflora rose petals, all closely related plants. **A caution: Roses are some of the most heavily treated plants people keep in their gardens. If you are uncertain about whether a rose bush has been treated, do not use the petals. I personally would avoid any and all commercially purchased flower petals as well.**
Immediate: Frenzy 12h: Gone 24h: Still Gone 

Wild Strawberry: Very surprising, but these were completely ignored.
Immediate: No interest 12h: Untouched 24h: Untouched