RyeGuy411

I use something like these to measure the powders.
 
http://www.rosesci.com/Products/products.php?search_go=Ladles,%20laboratory%20aids

Looking into flights right now!

You always find the most interesting things Bryce!

Long long long time ago, I wrote about how SD’s mineralizers will show values of +2dgH when using the API kits. This is true when you test the salts and other liquid mineralizers.
When I test with Hanna Instruments, I get roughly 5.71 – 6.11dGH. I’m at work currently, but I can dig up the original post when I’m home.
Anywhose, I’ve just learned to trust what the Hanna Instruments tests tells me. I’ve since switched over all my testing equipment to Hanna brand.
Ratio is pretty straight forward when dosing the minerals. 1mL of AlfaΒ per 1gallon (3.78L of water if you want to be technical) of water will give you 6dGH. I don’t use the pumps when administering my dosages because I’m a bit OCD and need to know exactly what is going in my RODI but if memory serves, each single pump of is equal to ~2mL of solution. So, you’d need to perform 2 pumps of Alfa and Beta each when dosing 4gals of water. I used to include disposable pipettes when shipping out the orders with the Bianco products but have since stopped as I’ve ran out.

Notice how I've removed the pump and replaced the Bianco mineralizers with caps. I always dose using a pipette because the pump can give +\- solution depending on last usage. Residual solution will throw off the total solution going into the rodi water. Not a big deal but again I'm OCD and it bothers me.

LOL!!! If you take budget airline, you will probably turn into profit.

I have set up three Controsoil tanks first one beginning of April, next end of April and the last end of June. So far I have experience massive deaths in the first two tanks. I have thoroughly cycled these tanks for a minimum of 4 weeks each time. After introducing shrimp everything seems fine then at some point usually a month in shrimp start dying. I have lost at least 25-30 adult shrimp and another 20-30 baby shrimp since the spring.  I have tested these tanks repeatedly and all levels are fine 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, >5ppm Nitrates. These tanks have held TB, Golden Bee, Pintos and even Neos. I have lost all types of shrimp. Ph has stayed stable aroun 6-6.2. My last set up Controsoil tank had shrimp introduced Saturday August 1st (low grade CRS) and so far no deaths until this past Saturday and very healthy looking shrimp. I added 15 RKK mischlings from Joe Chang this past Thursday and found one tiny baby dead from that shipment on Saturday.  My first two Controsoil tanks were 10g with AC 20's and dual sponge filters all equipement was identical. The 20L has an HMF filter from Swiss Tropicals only. I have been beyond frustrated and discouraged but my shrimp friends have been very supportive and helpful about trying to get my colonies back. I am very curious to see if this is a common problem with Controsoil tanks.

I highly recommend purigen in shrimp tanks. It absorbs organic byproducts and help to keep nitrates under control, plus it makes the water look sparkling clean.

I dont understand why you dont purchase shrimp from Tommy and have them shipped? You are both in Canada, he ships to the US so why cant you get them shipped to you?

I dont understand why you dont purchase shrimp from Tommy and have them shipped? You are both in Canada, he ships to the US so why cant you get them shipped to you?

my tank is currently at 77 right now for my taiwan bees. they are super active

Just curious, but why would you order cherries from Hawaii when we have them adapted to the states right around you?

For my water, higher than gh 4 makes the shell too hard to molt.
 
Not saying a higher gh may not work for someone else, but for me it doesn't.

I highly recommend purigen in shrimp tanks. It absorbs organic byproducts and help to keep nitrates under control, plus it makes the water look sparkling clean.

paracaridina

A few shrimp and some fissidens Geppi

I think i will go with the 100 gallon tank and do some mass breeding
and use the smaller tanks for selective breeding.
Here is a pic of the red tank. From 30 pieces to this 6 months later.
Imagine if I threw in 2 to 3 hundred pieces the results in 6 months.

I highly recommend purigen in shrimp tanks. It absorbs organic byproducts and help to keep nitrates under control, plus it makes the water look sparkling clean.

I highly recommend purigen in shrimp tanks. It absorbs organic byproducts and help to keep nitrates under control, plus it makes the water look sparkling clean.

A few shrimp and some fissidens Geppi

A few shrimp and some fissidens Geppi

Welcome to all the new members, I lurked for a month or so before joining up and Im glad I did.

Ryan, my shrimp are toaly loving that pink lady buce you sent!

I do 10% water change once every two weeks. Once I take the old water out, I just pour the new water straight in at one shot.
The key thing you have to take note is the temperature of the new water and not really the rest of the parameters (provided you are using consistent remineralising method). Large temperature swing may kill shrimp. Hence, don't use water that has huge temperature difference.
During winter, I will put a heater in my new water container to match the tank water temperature.

James Aquatics should have some Bloody Marys if you are looking.

Bloody Mary shrimp do not breed very true, they are more expensive because there is a heavy cull process to maintain the desired red color.