chibikaie

Feel free to bounce dosage calculations at me in the future! I order and calculate drugs for a wide variety of animals.

Oh dear! Hope it wasn't painful.
Looking back at your original post, as the powder is 222 mg/gm fenbendazole, 0.1 gm per 10 gallons works out to 2.2 mg/gallon. Then the paste is 100 mg/gm fenbendazole. For a 210 gallon system, I would have dosed 466 mg or just under a teaspoon. So, interesting to note that the treatment eliminated the hydra at much less than the previously recommended dose, but slightly mystifying as to why it was harmful for shrimp. My guess is something that is in the paste and not the powder - the paste is usually given a sweet apple flavor to make giving it to horses easier. The powder is not flavored as far as I know. I've used the liquid cattle suspension instead of the paste with good results (I hate weighing out powder so that is a last resort) but I don't think it is as strongly flavored.

I feed mine whatever foods I have on hand, including rabbit food pellets and plant trimmings, but primarily Hikari crab cuisine. They seem to be determinately omnivorous and not at all picky. I suspect that mine are hunting snails, but can't prove it.
I don't usually get to see mine face-on, always a lateral view when I can get a glimpse. I guess I oriented their hiding tubes the wrong way in the tank. So I have no idea if mine display the same resting pose. It would be neat to compare, though.

That's more likely to be disease related than parameters not being ideal. You will cause more stress to the fish by changing things and forcing him to compensate for a change while he is already sick.

Or they could be mimicking each other. My rabbits routinely copy each other's resting positions.

*sniffle* you really got my hopes up ...

Nerites prefer diatoms and what's generally called "green dust" algae, which is soft and easily removed - it's mainly a nuisance because it really likes to grow on glass. Mine wouldn't even really eat "green spot" algae (tougher stuff that is much harder to scrape off, generally likes to spring up when phosphates are low).
I have a theory that black beard algae growth is inhibited in alkaline and/or hard water. I'd like to test this some time but don't have a source for test specimens (or for acidic tank water).

Or they could be mimicking each other. My rabbits routinely copy each other's resting positions.

Just when I decide that it's time to get in some new shrimp and snails, I get hit with constant temperatures in the 90s. I wouldn't try to receive a shipmemt in this weather!

Just when I decide that it's time to get in some new shrimp and snails, I get hit with constant temperatures in the 90s. I wouldn't try to receive a shipmemt in this weather!

Where I am, they are going to be high next week, too. :(

How about bringing in the initial 30 gallons in stages? Stockpile until you have enough. Then you don't have to worry about what is in your tap water.
Most fish will eat or at least bother shrimp, so make your fish selections wisely if you want both.

That really does not look like a fish.

Without a source of ammonia, the cycle won't even get started. Your tank is definitely not cycled and won't safely handle livestock.

In my experience, while a cycle can be achieved with purigen, this process takes much longer with purigen. I'd prefer to add purigen after a normal cycle is complete, in line with your aforementioned suspicions.
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No idea on the vampires (they are notoriously difficult to feed in captivity, is my understanding), but I suggest looking into malawa shrimp. They also hail from Sulawesi, they don't mind the higher temperature, and they seem to be quite adaptable to many different water parameters.

No idea on the vampires (they are notoriously difficult to feed in captivity, is my understanding), but I suggest looking into malawa shrimp. They also hail from Sulawesi, they don't mind the higher temperature, and they seem to be quite adaptable to many different water parameters.

No idea on the vampires (they are notoriously difficult to feed in captivity, is my understanding), but I suggest looking into malawa shrimp. They also hail from Sulawesi, they don't mind the higher temperature, and they seem to be quite adaptable to many different water parameters.

It's common for the cycle to stall a little once you get nitrites. Don't worry about it and don't try to rush things.

I have access to microscopes at work, but you really only get to see bacteria on oil. Or, should I say, your best bet at ID'ing stuff is on oil. You can probably at least see motility at 40x (doesn't involve killing it) and yeast is apparent at 10-20x if you know what you are looking for. I'm not so hot at yeast ID, don't see enough of it. I will take a gander if anyone wants me to send me a sample. (Feb. 25 I will have access to phase contrast, best for direct slides.)
From my experience with pet-related food items: the package directions ALWAYS direct you to overfeed. Use them as a starting point but don't be surprised if they give you a fat pet.

That's more likely to be disease related than parameters not being ideal. You will cause more stress to the fish by changing things and forcing him to compensate for a change while he is already sick.

I'd rather not take them out of the tank for planaria treatment if I don't have to.

I'd rather not take them out of the tank for planaria treatment if I don't have to.

I'd rather not take them out of the tank for planaria treatment if I don't have to.

I love how they insist they're not suggesting that you set up a new tank expressly to test just using a sponge ... and how they are like "it's actually a drawback that they are so cheap to set up, you feel like you can set up too many tanks" - hilarious. Love it.
I'm a big fan of keeping it simple. The more stuff you have that can break, the more WILL break. I don't think I have ever seen a sponge filter break.